Cuba!

Really, it’s prob the best explanation, an exclamation point following Cuba. It’s a country rich with so much, yet stuck in some parts which ironically are both a benefit and a possible deterrent for its people and visitors like me.

Given my short stay, let alone this being my first visit (of more yet to come), at best these are my observations. I’d qualify my observations, however, into three distinct camps; political, economic, and cultural.

Political.

Sting, the musician, once wrote in a lyric, I hope the Russians love their children too. In this song “Russians”, Sting sang about the futility of the Cold War, how the deterrent of mutual destruction was anything but rational. And while I’ve never been to Russia, one of my observations was on the sheer futility of the Cold War. Other than an ideology, there were no winners; least of all the people on both sides of the iron curtain. Zealots, on both side of the political spectrum, were ready to sacrifice their children and grandchildren for an ideology.

Marti, a national hero during the independence from Spain, warned not to cozy up to the Americans as they’d move from one colonial power to another. In a sense he was right, as both Cuba and Philippines were a US Colony up until the 1930s. And while the US placed President was highly disliked by the populace and the elite, he was “our man”. No pro Govt soldier was ready to die for a despot, so the Cuban revolution was inevitable.

But the irony, however, was that while one colonial power was discarded, another replaced it. And while we mask the word “colony” with a political ideology, Cuba was pretty much still a colony, only this time a Soviet one. It was thrown from a land of sun and sugar to the front line of the Cold War. And for what? Don’t get me wrong, as same could be said for other countries pro US. In both cases, they lost something unique to their own culture.

When the Berlin Wall finally fell, and the Russians finally retreated from its “colonies”, those countries with economic and defence umbilical chords to the Russians faced an economic collapse. The Cuban economy consequently suffered a 1930s-like depression from the early 90s. But unlike Romania, Hungary, however, the leaders weren’t ousted as Fidel was still very much liked, given how relative to the rest of Latin America, it still had and maintained free healthcare, best educated and most literate, and the lowest crime rate (all which are still true today).

Now that the Castro brothers are no longer running Cuba, and with the easy(er) access to 3G and social media, how its new leaders will adapt becomes more interesting. And while I doubt Cuba will have an Arab-Spring like revolution like in Tunisia, how it’s leaders adapt to this modern world of e commerce and information, yet still supply first world education and free healthcare, will determine how well they succeed in continuing to manage their country.

Economic.

Unlike Syria, which has a strategic purpose due to proximity to oil fields and the Suez Canal, the new Russia has not come back to be Cuba’s purse. For the strategically minded Putin, at least, Cuba no longer served a strategic purpose for the new Russia. In steps in Chavez from Venezuela, supplying highly subsidised oil and petro dollars. But this too was never a long term economic plan as once the price of oil collapsed from previous peaks, so too did Venezuela’s development funding. Cuba was once again on its own.

The Cuban exports are both mineral and personnel rich, and increasingly, tourism. Cuba is rich in Nickel, and some Canadian mining companies exporting from here.

As for personnel exports, medical personnel exported to other Latin American and Asian countries, where there are shortages of doctors and nurses. These exports supply both export dollars to the Govt, as allows Doctors to supplement their U$40 per month Govt salary. No, this is not a typo, doctors make $40 per month. (University, healthcare, and many other services are free, but clearly this is still a problem)

But it seems the highest growth industry is tourism, however, which is growing each year and offering many a chance to supplement their very modest government salaries. From hotel services, to restaurants, taxi services (often in American cars still serviced and running from the 1940s and 50s). Tipping is both essential, as very much appreciated, as this can often make a big difference to the locals.

Early on, much of these tourist oriented businesses were partnership between the Govt and large multinationals (mostly from Europe and Canada). Like in China, the foreign partner cannot but more than 49%, leaving the Govt with majority holding. But private businesses are picking up the slack, with “Casa’s” often offering a superior alternative to hotels (private homes, like B&Bs), and homes offering restaurant style menus (home cooked meals).

Reminiscent of the antiquated Berlin Wall, the economic sanctions on Cuba still exist. Corporations which do business in Cuba, even citizens, have restrictions imposed on them by US Govt. For example, one of the very few companies which were given 50/50 ownership of a Nickel mine has seen sanctions and restrictions imposed on them from doing business in the US. The stark reality, just as with the Berlin Wall, such restriction are myopic and eventually too shall fall.

Cultural.

For the tourist, however, the true attraction to Cuba is the richness in cultural attractions; from its architecture, it’s beautiful coastline, it’s 500 year colonial history (celebrated this year, 2019), hand rolled cigars and rum based drinks (like Daiquiri’s, Mojitos, Pina Colada), and, of course, it’s diverse music and jazz bars.

Some of the best nights I’ve ever had were in Havana, with the privately run restaurants offering food quality similar to other culinary capitals, while the music clubs having a great variety of lively music and bands. Where possible, choose the privately run options over the Govt ones, as both service and food are often far superior.

But if there was one attraction which one should NOT miss, it’s the Cuban people. If you come to Cuba and go from tour bus to sights, you are missing something very special. Look at their eyes and say “Buen Dia Amigo”, and watch their eyes light up and return the kindness by ten. They love to joke, sing, and dance. Extend your arm and they’ll extend back with a warm embrace. They may not be rich in physical assets, but what they have in kindness makes them true millionaires. Walk the streets with feeling safe as Cuba really does have some of the lowest crime rates throughout the Americas.

Closing observations.

For us, we wanted to come before full economic liberalisation. While admittedly selfish, I wanted to see Cuba before McDonalds and Starbucks ruin their already rich menus. Of all the things we export, this and cigarettes are prob the most culturally damaging. There is talk that McDonalds has already eyed opening one on the famous Malecon in old Havana, an iconic site.

For those wanting to get away from internet and email access, put Cuba on your list. Yes, you can access internet, but unlike most countries, it’s far harder to find, let alone foreigners aren’t allowed to buy Cuban SIM cards for 3G access; and VERY few foreign telcos have agreements with the Cuban national telco. A great way to truly get away from the office, or ween your kids off their smart phones.

Either way, don’t wait too long. Cuba will move forward and “develop”. I say this respectfully as this will be a true challenge, as it would for any country. How to open up your economy and politics yet still retain the extremely high standards in health, education, and public safety? I truly hope that they find this without sacrificing their rich culture and warmth.

See you again Cuba. We will be back!