Tibetan Motorcycle Diaries; Days 1 through 4

Day 1; 170 Kms through national park and through the Nepalese Himalayas, finishing a short 10 kms outside of the Tibetan border.   Introduced to my motorcycle for the next 12 days, a Royal Enfield Himalayas, 500 cc.  An Enduro motorcycle.  

The ride was magnificent, but it is truly sad to see that there is still so much work to be done following the devastating earthquake of 2014. What little money they have clearly wasn’t invested to rebuild the more scenic routes.  Which meant that much of the ride was more like motocross than road riding.  

This would have been fine were it not for the torrential rain.   Aside from turning the roads into mud fields, exposing only huge base rock underneath, it similarly meant land slides and road collapsing.  And all while riding at high altitudes of the Himalayas.  

One road collapse happened literally before we arrived, leaving only a one meter width path to get across.  One of the crazy Kiwis insanely road his 500cc bike across.  The rest of us 6, of course, walked out bikes across this narrow gap, hoping the weight didn’t collapse the road even further down mountain.  

We finished our 170 km ride in a small village near the border, hovering the river. The sounds of the rapids, plus the sore muscles, made for a restful sleep.

Day 2.  Crossing the border into Tibet.  From 1800 to Kyrong, Tibet (2800 meters).  

While customs and immigration is always complicated, seems land crossing is always tough inasmuch the security is extra tight.  From bags being opened, through to motorcycles being inspected.   Took us four hours to get into Tibet.   One of our riders had his Lonely Planet book on Tibet confiscated.   While this was happening, I saw a few birds fly freely between the border, which only reminded me how borders are man made.  

Once in, we rode only 40 or so kilometres as it was all up the Himalayas and we needed to climatise ourselves to the altitude.   We went from 2500 meters to 3500.   

We stayed at a small town where we got our first taste of the Tibetans.   They’re prolific smilers.   Friendly as can be.   

Day 3.  Had to cross the pass to get into the Tibetan altiplano, 180 km.  The pass was 5200 meters above sea level.  Cold and windy, with dry air.  But as you can imagine, the scenery was amazing.  

As we hit the altiplano, I couldn’t help but think how much the Himalayas reminded me of the Andes, only 1,000 meters higher.   The only thing that was missing were the llamas, potatoes air dried, and the red chicha flag.   But the homes were of adobe and the Tibetans look very much like the Andean first nation people.  Same dark skin.  Same warm smiles.  It’s obvious how the whole American first nation people came from Asia.

Outside of the sheer beauty, and how every time you come across a Tibetan they give you the friendliest of smiles, one of the things which has been surprising to me  are the number of police and military checkpoints on the road.   About every 80 kms or so, there is one of these checkpoints where you have to show your papers.    Not sure if this is only in the Tibet region, or all of China.  Don’t remember it around what little driving I’ve done around Beijing and Shanghai, so can only assume it’s a Tibet thing.  

Finishing at near 180 km ride, we stayed at a small town called Saga.  The more we ride into Tibet, the more clear it is that they don’t see many westerners.  A few times we were asked if they could take photos of us.  And when we took photos of them, they cracked up when they saw us all standing together.  Which only reminded me, how this Hermit Kingdom did not allow any foreigners until early in the 20th century.  

Day 3, driving 380 kms through the altiplano to a small ancient town of Sakya, known for its 10th century Bhuddist temple.   

We left at the crack of dawn in the rain, which at 4500 meters/14,800 feet above sea level, meant to was COLD.   As my father would say, cold as Puno (in Peru).   We had to stop every 60 km to stretch and drink hot tea.   Learned a new trick, place your gloves on the engine to warm them up, but avid the muffler as they’ll burn.   

At one of our break stops, we happened to park next to a sheep farmer, only Tibetan style.  I approached to say hello, and was greeted by that Tibetan welcoming smile.  They turned out to be Tibetan nomads who during their summer live in tents by the mountain tops to raise either sheep or Yaks.  

More and more checkpoints.  Only means that unless you’re Chinese, not sure how doing this ride solo would have worked.   

But in the end we made good time to Sakya, making in just in time to visit the 5 PM dance ritual of the monks at the Bhuddist monastery.   Learned that this Bhuddism came to Tibet and Bhutan in the 8th century, and that this large monastery was built in the 10th.  Aside from its size, it’s claim to fame is that it houses the singles largest collection of Bhuddist scriptures in Tibet.   

The dancing was great.  They danced in a large circle, with each dance move signifying something from their scriptures, and dancing to the high monks playing tambourines, some kind of clarinet, and those four meter/twelve foot long horns.   Watching them, and the locals sitting on the side was something to be seen.  No photo would do it justice.  

One little Prugue anecdote.  So while I was in the courtyard watching all the monks dance to some special Bhuddist scripture, one monk breaks rank and with his index finger pushes inside my belly, as if I was some laughing Bhudda or a Pilsbury Doughboy.  We laughed and laughed and laughed.  I’m told he regained consciousness after a few hours.  (OK, I’m kidding.  But he did have that Tibetan warm smile). 

Day 4, Sakya to Shigatse, 150 kms going down to 3800 meters above altitude.  Shigatse is Tibet’s second largest city outside of Lhasa.  

Driving in Tibet is a huge improvement than driving in Nepal.  But it does have its challenges.  

In Nepal you know that the roads are riddled with potholes, let alone dirt roads often knee high in mud.  So you hardly get any chance to drive above 60 kph.  Tibet, on the other hand, is part of China.  So the roads are much better paved.   And while one may be tempted to ride fast, that is of course when you’re not driving up and down the mountains, the difficulty lies with your never knowing when a flock of sheep or yaks will jump out in the road.  Truly.  

The other difficulty is reading the street or warning signs.  They’re all in either Tibetan or Mandarin.  And since my ability to read Mandarin is limited to #14 (which stands for fried dumplings), or #33 (which stands for Kang Pao Chicken), it’s hard to know when you’re being warned of obstacles ahead.  

The reason for this ride being a short one, however, was because being Chinese Tibet; there are rules.    Remember when I mentioned how there are military or police road blocks every 80 or so kms?   Well to ride into Lhasa we need new set of papers AND a Chinese drivers license.  Heck, I know how to do Chinese Fire Drills, but getting a drivers license in China is rather complicated.  Aside from the exam, I had to get a physical, a security clearance, get Chinese road insurance, the motorcycle examined, and promise never to call Egg Rolls Chinese.   Rules are rules hey?   This process can take between 6 to 12 hours; none of which is under our control.

Before I give you the wrong impression, when it comes to borders, bureaucracy is the same everywhere.  What makes this more unique, of course, are issues relating to Tibet; adding another layer of bureaucracy and police  check points.