Tibetan Motorcycle Diaries; days 8 through 11
Day 8, Lhasa (3600 meters) to Shigatse (3800 meters), 370 kms
By far this was the most picturesque ride since we started back in Kathmandu. Took the historic route through the royal entry into Lhasa, which is marked at the start of the valley at the foot of the mountain range.
When I was a boy, one of my favourite books was “Lost Horizons”; a story of westerners fleeing revolutionary China on a doomed airplane which crashed in the Himalayas and stumble on Shangri-La (which means a remote beautiful imaginary place where life approaches perfection, or utopia). The author’s description of the Himalayas was cemented from then; part reality, part dream. Well today, this dream was realised as all the beauty the author spoke was seen first hand.
Today we rode through two mountain passes, one was snow covered. But each time we breach +4500 meters/15,000 feet, both the bike and I feel it. Hard to explain, but think of it as a headache from hyperventilating. You have to remember that at these levels, there is 2/3rd’s the oxygen level as there is at sea level. One can adjust the carburettor to accomodate, but harder so for us (or to be specific, for this beach bum).
For the trivia buffs, at 5,000 meters/16,400 ft, water boils at 86 deg Celsius, instead of 100. And, every 1,000 meters/3400 feet in altitude, the natural temp drops 6 degrees Celsius/40 degrees Fahrenheit. Am sure my math loving climbing friends will correct me where I’m wrong; but i suspect it’s close enough.
Sad to have the day finish, but will always be able to replay the ride through the Himalayas the same way I had pictured as a boy. Mission accomplished.
Day 9, Shigatse (3800 meters) to Kangar (4400 meters), 400 kms, which includes a 200 km detour to Mt Everest Base Camp (Tibetan side).
We left just before dawn, which meant that by the time we left town, surrounded only by the Himalayas, the sun rise and colours on the mountains around us were spectacular.
Before lunch we had to cross two mountain passes, one was 4800 meters while the second one was 5200 meters/17.000 feet. What made the second one more interesting was that it was through Mt Qomolangasa National Park. This park is one of the world’s highest altiplano of ~5000 meters/16,400 feet. Seeing the nomadic herders tending to their Yak’s and sheep made this passage all the more picturesque.
Given the expected long ride, we didn’t pull over too often to take many photos. This one time I had, however, met a Tibetan nomad who had the most inviting eyes when he smiled. I just had to take off my gloves and helmet, and shake his hands. Despite the bitter cold, his hands was as warm as a fluffy wool blanket on a winter’s night. We didn’t say much to one another, which really didn’t matter as our conversations were through eye contact; old school.
Spanner in the works. Peter, the crazy Kiwi that rode his motorcycle across the landslide in Nepal, had mechanical problems just before lunch. Problem with gear box. Surprisingly, given Royal Enfields are usually easy to fix on the run, his bike was kaput. While it clearly could have happened to any of us, we lost four valuable hours of riding. So heavy that, to be honest, I was going to skip the ride to Mt Everest.
Collectively, we took a united decision; we’d all still continue to Everest; knowing that our ride back from there would be in the dark. Just under 80 kms of a dirt road, with no road lights, albeit less (if any) oncoming traffic.
You have to remember that at the altitude of the base camp, we knew it was going to be COLD. We also knew that there was really only a 10% chance that we’d see it at all, given it’s usually covered by clouds this time of the year. Add on top a dark and bitterly cold ride out, you’d understand that I had my second thoughts on going. But lucky for me, my new riding friend from Brazil, Gustavo, talked me into going. Thankfully he did.
As we were passing the last mountain pass into the valley under Everest, we could see the enormity of Mother Nature’s gift; albeit the top covered by clouds. But by the time we actually got to the base camp, we had a clear view of the Tibetan side of Mt Everest. And best yet, with the late afternoon shining right on her. She was lit up, and there to be admired. She is breathtakingly beautiful.
We knew we didn’t have much time left of sunlight. So after about an hour, we headed back as darkness was setting. And as expected, as we hit the final 60 kms of dirt, we were in TOTAL darkness. Peter, the crazy Kiwi moto cross rider, was in heaven. You could hear his smile across all the muffler rumble.
Half way into dark ride, we pulled over to make sure everyone was fine. I think it was Gustavo who told us to turn off our engines and lights. We looked up and the stars and Milky Way were there to be grabbed. Mother Nature was intent of finishing the day with a light show; which we all appreciated. But once our teeth were chattering, we continued on. We finished our ride at 11:15 PM!
Tomorrow we start heading back to Kathmandu. It would either take us two or three days; depending on the border crossing (endless bureaucratic rubber stamps and inspections) and weather (road conditions and landslides).
Day 9, Kangar (4800 meters) to Kyrong (2800 meters), 270 kms travelled. Near the Tibetan and Nepalese border.
Last leg in Tibet as we make our return to Kathmandu. While half the road we’ve travelled before, we were able to add a new and scenic route near Peiqu Lake, around 4200 meters.
Day 10, Kyrong (2800 meters) to Kathmandu (1500 meters), 260 kms, or 160 kms within Nepal, or 60 kms/37 miles through mud/dirt road.
What a difference travelling on a proper bitumen road vs one made from gravel and often collapsed. While we took 14.5 hours, it took us near five hours to cross the Nepalese mountains. Last time we had rain and a road collapse on us, this time we had rain and a mountain slide into the road. We covered 60 kms/37 miles in around five hours!
For me at least, this day was the hardest of all our 10 days on the road. Often what use to be two lanes was down to one; and in Nepal, this means road anarchy. Meaning, no one was willing to let others in, or take turns. This meant that all too often we were immovable as even the sides of these trucks were too narrow and wet; fearing a collapse down the mountain. Whatever zen I captured in Tibet was gone by the first 10 of these 60 kms. You know it’s bad when I start swearing at the drivers in Spanish! CTM!
Once we finished this mountain road, darkness began to set in. While the land was flat, there were enough pot holes large enough to have synchronised swimming competition in. Which meant, even if you wanted to floor it to make up time back to Kathmandu, it wouldn’t be advisable as the road was too scattered with these pot holes.
In the end, after 14.5 hours since we started in the Tibetan border town of Kyrong, we covered only 260 kms. But once some of us arrived to our hotel by 10 PM, a sense of exhaustion and relief flooded us. We did it, covered a total of 2150 kms/1350 miles, circumventing Tibet, going to Mt Everest Base Camp (Tibet side), and crossed Nepalese mountain. We were safe, no major accidents or injuries; and full of stories and a sense of achievement. Was so overjoyed that I literally hugged “Kathy Kathmandu”, the name I gave my 500 cc Royal Enfield Himalayas Enduro bike.
Day 11, Day of R&R in Kathmandu (1500 meters).
After a well earned sleep, we reminisced over breakfast about our trip, about all the we saw, and the friendship and bond we developed over these 10 days of riding. We handed over our bikes, and took one final group photo.
As we were all sore, mostly neck and shoulder, most of us went to our hotel spa to get a Nepalese massage. Oh my, to say it was spectacular would be an understatement. Bliss! More knots on my back and neck than a sailor could tie on a sail boat. My poor Nepalese masseuse struggled, as the couldn’t quite stretch my back. But man, could she pack a punch with those small hands.
Tonight we have one final dinner, as some of us start returning home. Lino (the 64 yo from Barcelona), however, is flying to Bhutan for yet ANOTHER ride, having done India before arriving to Kathmandu. The my two crazy Kiwis are off to India to continue the rides. Like myself, the rest of us are returning home to amaze ourself what the hell we just did.
Assuming anyone is interested, will write one more piece; this time a reflection of the whole adventure and the doors it has mentally and spiritually opened for me.
By far this was the most picturesque ride since we started back in Kathmandu. Took the historic route through the royal entry into Lhasa, which is marked at the start of the valley at the foot of the mountain range.
When I was a boy, one of my favourite books was “Lost Horizons”; a story of westerners fleeing revolutionary China on a doomed airplane which crashed in the Himalayas and stumble on Shangri-La (which means a remote beautiful imaginary place where life approaches perfection, or utopia). The author’s description of the Himalayas was cemented from then; part reality, part dream. Well today, this dream was realised as all the beauty the author spoke was seen first hand.
Today we rode through two mountain passes, one was snow covered. But each time we breach +4500 meters/15,000 feet, both the bike and I feel it. Hard to explain, but think of it as a headache from hyperventilating. You have to remember that at these levels, there is 2/3rd’s the oxygen level as there is at sea level. One can adjust the carburettor to accomodate, but harder so for us (or to be specific, for this beach bum).
For the trivia buffs, at 5,000 meters/16,400 ft, water boils at 86 deg Celsius, instead of 100. And, every 1,000 meters/3400 feet in altitude, the natural temp drops 6 degrees Celsius/40 degrees Fahrenheit. Am sure my math loving climbing friends will correct me where I’m wrong; but i suspect it’s close enough.
Sad to have the day finish, but will always be able to replay the ride through the Himalayas the same way I had pictured as a boy. Mission accomplished.
Day 9, Shigatse (3800 meters) to Kangar (4400 meters), 400 kms, which includes a 200 km detour to Mt Everest Base Camp (Tibetan side).
We left just before dawn, which meant that by the time we left town, surrounded only by the Himalayas, the sun rise and colours on the mountains around us were spectacular.
Before lunch we had to cross two mountain passes, one was 4800 meters while the second one was 5200 meters/17.000 feet. What made the second one more interesting was that it was through Mt Qomolangasa National Park. This park is one of the world’s highest altiplano of ~5000 meters/16,400 feet. Seeing the nomadic herders tending to their Yak’s and sheep made this passage all the more picturesque.
Given the expected long ride, we didn’t pull over too often to take many photos. This one time I had, however, met a Tibetan nomad who had the most inviting eyes when he smiled. I just had to take off my gloves and helmet, and shake his hands. Despite the bitter cold, his hands was as warm as a fluffy wool blanket on a winter’s night. We didn’t say much to one another, which really didn’t matter as our conversations were through eye contact; old school.
Spanner in the works. Peter, the crazy Kiwi that rode his motorcycle across the landslide in Nepal, had mechanical problems just before lunch. Problem with gear box. Surprisingly, given Royal Enfields are usually easy to fix on the run, his bike was kaput. While it clearly could have happened to any of us, we lost four valuable hours of riding. So heavy that, to be honest, I was going to skip the ride to Mt Everest.
Collectively, we took a united decision; we’d all still continue to Everest; knowing that our ride back from there would be in the dark. Just under 80 kms of a dirt road, with no road lights, albeit less (if any) oncoming traffic.
You have to remember that at the altitude of the base camp, we knew it was going to be COLD. We also knew that there was really only a 10% chance that we’d see it at all, given it’s usually covered by clouds this time of the year. Add on top a dark and bitterly cold ride out, you’d understand that I had my second thoughts on going. But lucky for me, my new riding friend from Brazil, Gustavo, talked me into going. Thankfully he did.
As we were passing the last mountain pass into the valley under Everest, we could see the enormity of Mother Nature’s gift; albeit the top covered by clouds. But by the time we actually got to the base camp, we had a clear view of the Tibetan side of Mt Everest. And best yet, with the late afternoon shining right on her. She was lit up, and there to be admired. She is breathtakingly beautiful.
We knew we didn’t have much time left of sunlight. So after about an hour, we headed back as darkness was setting. And as expected, as we hit the final 60 kms of dirt, we were in TOTAL darkness. Peter, the crazy Kiwi moto cross rider, was in heaven. You could hear his smile across all the muffler rumble.
Half way into dark ride, we pulled over to make sure everyone was fine. I think it was Gustavo who told us to turn off our engines and lights. We looked up and the stars and Milky Way were there to be grabbed. Mother Nature was intent of finishing the day with a light show; which we all appreciated. But once our teeth were chattering, we continued on. We finished our ride at 11:15 PM!
Tomorrow we start heading back to Kathmandu. It would either take us two or three days; depending on the border crossing (endless bureaucratic rubber stamps and inspections) and weather (road conditions and landslides).
Day 9, Kangar (4800 meters) to Kyrong (2800 meters), 270 kms travelled. Near the Tibetan and Nepalese border.
Last leg in Tibet as we make our return to Kathmandu. While half the road we’ve travelled before, we were able to add a new and scenic route near Peiqu Lake, around 4200 meters.
Day 10, Kyrong (2800 meters) to Kathmandu (1500 meters), 260 kms, or 160 kms within Nepal, or 60 kms/37 miles through mud/dirt road.
What a difference travelling on a proper bitumen road vs one made from gravel and often collapsed. While we took 14.5 hours, it took us near five hours to cross the Nepalese mountains. Last time we had rain and a road collapse on us, this time we had rain and a mountain slide into the road. We covered 60 kms/37 miles in around five hours!
For me at least, this day was the hardest of all our 10 days on the road. Often what use to be two lanes was down to one; and in Nepal, this means road anarchy. Meaning, no one was willing to let others in, or take turns. This meant that all too often we were immovable as even the sides of these trucks were too narrow and wet; fearing a collapse down the mountain. Whatever zen I captured in Tibet was gone by the first 10 of these 60 kms. You know it’s bad when I start swearing at the drivers in Spanish! CTM!
Once we finished this mountain road, darkness began to set in. While the land was flat, there were enough pot holes large enough to have synchronised swimming competition in. Which meant, even if you wanted to floor it to make up time back to Kathmandu, it wouldn’t be advisable as the road was too scattered with these pot holes.
In the end, after 14.5 hours since we started in the Tibetan border town of Kyrong, we covered only 260 kms. But once some of us arrived to our hotel by 10 PM, a sense of exhaustion and relief flooded us. We did it, covered a total of 2150 kms/1350 miles, circumventing Tibet, going to Mt Everest Base Camp (Tibet side), and crossed Nepalese mountain. We were safe, no major accidents or injuries; and full of stories and a sense of achievement. Was so overjoyed that I literally hugged “Kathy Kathmandu”, the name I gave my 500 cc Royal Enfield Himalayas Enduro bike.
Day 11, Day of R&R in Kathmandu (1500 meters).
After a well earned sleep, we reminisced over breakfast about our trip, about all the we saw, and the friendship and bond we developed over these 10 days of riding. We handed over our bikes, and took one final group photo.
As we were all sore, mostly neck and shoulder, most of us went to our hotel spa to get a Nepalese massage. Oh my, to say it was spectacular would be an understatement. Bliss! More knots on my back and neck than a sailor could tie on a sail boat. My poor Nepalese masseuse struggled, as the couldn’t quite stretch my back. But man, could she pack a punch with those small hands.
Tonight we have one final dinner, as some of us start returning home. Lino (the 64 yo from Barcelona), however, is flying to Bhutan for yet ANOTHER ride, having done India before arriving to Kathmandu. The my two crazy Kiwis are off to India to continue the rides. Like myself, the rest of us are returning home to amaze ourself what the hell we just did.
Assuming anyone is interested, will write one more piece; this time a reflection of the whole adventure and the doors it has mentally and spiritually opened for me.
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