Tibetan Motorcycle Diaries; Reflections

Before I begin, I’d like to thank you all for your continued support and shared enthusiasm for these past 12 days circumventing Tibet.   Your support was never lost on me.  So once again, a sincere thank you for your support.

Soon after we finished the ride, I was asked how I felt about the whole Tibetan experience.  To be honest, I couldn’t even answer as I was totally overwhelmed with exhaustion; both physically as mentally.  

After our 14.5 hour day, where over 4 of these hours we only covered 60 kms of mud, stones, rain, and two landslides, the fact that the ride was “finished” was overshadowed by this exhaustion.  Even now, two days after this finish, I still struggle to hold even a pen; let alone still walking with a wad of toilet paper in my hip pocket (a necessity while travelling through more remote areas in Tibet).

Wanting to share my reflections of this journey, I’d like to break these down into three subsequent parts: political, cultural, and spiritual.  But before I do, suffice to say that these are just my own as I accept that some of my motorcycle comrades may have different interpretations from this same ride.  I am no expert on any of these three subjects, so any observations would be highly subjective to my own observations and experiences.   

Political.  

I questioned myself if I should even write about this as I fully appreciate that this one observation is highly subjective.   So, as a personal favour, please take this part with a pinch of salt, and a shot of tequila.   :))

Having travelled to China often, be it Beijing, Shanghai, or Shenzhen, it was very difficult but but not observe the political implications within Tibet; and ironically, because of the very visible Chinese presence (way more visible than when I travelled in other parts of China). 

You felt this presence immediately on crossing the Nepalese border into China.  Aside from the fact that it took near three hours (compared to thirty minutes from HK into Shenzhen), one of my fellow riders had his Lonely Planet on Tibet confiscated.   We didn’t ask why, but we equally saw such a confiscation on our exit from Tibet (12 days later).

Other interesting observations were how we never once saw a photo of the current and present 14th Daila Lama; where instead we saw photos of the 13th Daila Lama (who passed away decades ago).   It was also a big no-no to even mention the 14th Daila Lama, who is living in exile in northern India. 

Going into the major Tibetan temples and monasteries was always preceded by some form of police or military checkpoint; be it on the road or just before entry.  So sensitive was this matter that every time we wanted to refuel our motorcycles, we had to do it away from the fuel pumps, with the gas attendant filling up our tanks manually with fuel cans (while cars, of course, filled up at the gas pump).  When we asked why, we were told it was because some monks have let themselves alight by the pump.  

Whatever ones view on Tibet, it is equally clear that Tibet is China.  In fact, the main Tibetan palace in Lhasa, Potala, is on the 50 Chinese Yuan note.   

The majority of the tourist’s we saw, prob 95% of them, were mainland Chinese.  And while around 70 to 75% of the 5 million living in Tibet are Tibetan, I suspect this percentage will decrease.  In the two major cities we visited, we saw the Chinese building new housing for the influx of mainland Chinese into Tibet.   Tibet will remain Tibet, albeit with Chinese characters.   

All this said, however, the Chinese are clearly investing heavily into Tibet.   The road system is by far WAY superior to the roads we drove in Nepal.  Not even comparable.   We similarly saw more hospitals and schools in Tibet, and there is much less corruption than in the Republic of Nepal.   So whatever the political cost, it would be wrong not to highlight the superior infrastructure in Tibet than in Nepal.   

Social

Cannot say this enough, aside from the obvious beauty of the Tibetan Himalayas, I’d have to say the the Tibetans themselves are as much a much a treasure as the Himalayas or Everest itself.  Their personal warmth is not subjective, it’s instinctive.  They are naturally kind and warm, greeting you with eyes which smile as bright as the ones on their face.  Country or city Tibetans, all were equally gracious and kind.  A true gem, one which every country should aspire towards.  

Unlike many other countries in South America or Africa, the vast majority of the Tibetans live outside the cities.  They are farmers and herders; albeit with a growing number going into tourism, mining, and construction.   There is still a robust nomadic presence, who during the summer move their animals up the mountains and live humbly in their nomadic tents; much like their ancestors before them.   

For many Tibetans, life revolves around the tea houses, where they meet to socialise much like we in Australia do around pubs.   I remember going into one in Lhasa, with a group of Tibetan men inviting us to join them at their table.  We couldn’t understand one another, but we did communicate through our eye contact.  And each time our ginger tea ran low, they always made sure they topped it up for us.  Never had to pee so much than after our time in a Tibetan tea house; which isn’t a great result when on a motorcycle.  :))

As for the food, it generally revolves around vegetables, rice, mutton, goat, AND Yak.  We saw Yak stew, Yak burgers, Yak butter, Yak milk, Yak steaks.  Remember the movie “Forrest Gump”?   Remember when Forrest’s friend, Bubba, would recite all the things he could do with shrimp?   Well in Tibet, am sure there is a Bubba equivalent reciting an endless amount of things one can do with Yak; from clothing, blankets, to food.   

Spiritual

This topic is by far the most subjective interpretation, as what may be spiritual to me, may not be for you.   But without a doubt, the spirituality of Tibet is something you feel soon after arriving into Tibet.   Maybe it’s because of the majestic beauty of the Himalayas, or the numerous Tibetan Bhuddist temples and monasteries, or even because of the aforementioned warmth from the Tibetans themselves.  Either way, it’s something you feel almost immediately, and something that for me made this trip to very special (am told you get much of this in neighbouring Bhutan as well).  

The monks themselves were glowing in personality.   Some even let us into places not usually open to tourists, as they clearly appreciated our long journey to get there.  Or when we saw a century’s old dance performed by the monks, with one of them cheekily breaking ranks to poke his index finger into my stomach, accompanied with the usual Tibetan smile.   

The spirituality from this trip was utterly different than the one on the 800 km trek across the Camino to Santiago.  It wasn’t better, nor worse, just very different.  Perhaps it was due to the speed travelled, as walking one can observe more than while driving a motorcycle through the Himalayas.   Your concentration has to be on the road and the oncoming traffic (trucks coming down the mountain are the most dangerous as they take up both lanes, and often their brakes are suboptimal due to overheating of the break pads).   

All I’m certain of, however, is that the warmth showered on us by the Tibetans is one which lifted my heart and spirits.   From the children to the elderly, from the nomads to the city dwellers, this warmth was encompassing.  It grabbed you, making you feel at home in a country which is so foreign on so many levels.  It’s one I will not only miss, but one I hope to be able to hold onto.   

Attached herein is a videologue if this trip.  All I can hope it that is that it conveys even part of this joy I felt.  

Thank you again for all your support and encouragement on this trip.  It truly is appreciated as welcomed.  

Photo Video Shoot; Tibetan Motorcycle Diaries

https://youtu.be/FbjOctR4HhU